PTO Garage

Warning ! working on your own car is dangerous and all parts listed below are not guaranteed to work on your case so do your homework. this is just a guide of what I did to remedy a problem and how I was able to trouble shoot and resolve my issue as inexpensively as possible. I recently collected a bit to much snow in my lower splash shield when backing into garage that it bent and caught the lip of concrete at the driveway/garage union. Needless to say it split in two and had to be zip tie stitched back together until I could get a new one. They are available from $149 - $26 www.onlinemazdaparts.com $149 https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/Mazda_2008_323L-MTMazdaspeed-Hatchback/Lower-shield-Radiator-Support-Splash-Shield-Under-cover--Front-Lower-shield------------------------------Under-cover/49003146/BP4K56111M.html www.Amazon.com $40.71 w/ prime shipping https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF1Q8P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.rockauto.com $26.89 ...

Warning ! working on your own car is dangerous and all parts listed below are not guaranteed to work on your case so do your homework. this is just a guide of what I did to remedy a problem and how I was able to trouble shoot and resolve my issue as inexpensively as possible. I have had a slight clunk/extra bounce going on for a few weeks. So i figured it was time for new rear shocks it has been a few years since I last replaced them. I did them when, One of my rear springs cracked and became two pieces. www.napaonline.com did not list a suitable replacement and I could not find a great kyb, koni, or any other suitable replacement so I went back for the originals from www.onlinemazdaparts.com and have had good luck with them in the past. https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/Mazda_2008_323L-MTMazdaspeed-Hatchback/Shock-SHOCK-ABSORBER--Rear-From-09302008-To-09302008/48660292/B37F28910E.html as you can see the one on the far right is a bit shorter and had nothing left to give, yo...

Warning ! working on your own car is dangerous and all parts listed below are not guaranteed to work on your case so do your homework. this is just a guide of what I did to remedy a problem and how I was able to trouble shoot and resolve my issue as inexpensively as possible. First off this is the horrible noise my car was making from this bearing being bad, It was pretty easy to deduce what was the issue, or at least narrow it down. Turn the cabin temperature all the way down and cycle the a/c button ( AC on no noise and AC off, video above). At this point I knew it was AC compressor, AC clutch or pulley related . I read around on some sites and found that this bearing from autozone fits (MT2021) for $23 and the one from napa was $80 and it was worth trying as the whole pulley assembly from onlinemazdaparts was $205 but you do not need a press for this option, but we will get to that later. pop your new bearing in the freezer just for good measure the night before you ...

I needed to remove the www.dipyourcar.com - metallic series - Anthracite Grey from a set of rims in order to get new tires put on and it worked as described. They had been washed and used pre-dip spray in may 2015 for the initial coating and I had re-coated with a couple cans not all four in May 2016. The rims are 5 spoke with a hole in each spoke so they are complicated to spray and peel. Where it was thick and well coated it pulled right off as shown in the time lapse below Otherwise the remaining small patches that do not easily peel, rubber glove up, put on a respirator mask for fumes, a quick spray of brakeleen and a towel that will be destroyed afterwards and go for it. They went right back to stock with no remnants of the coating at all when I was finished. The new tires went on and the rims were painted right back to a fresh coat that afternoon. Thank you dip your car for your great products. check out their latest dip, wicked purple. ...

I have been smelling that sweet smell of antifreeze burning for a little while and while never seeing any on the ground from a bad water pump I knew it was time as the 25 year old cooling system is showing its age. I recently got the foot drip of the old 900s as well but the heater bypass valve is back ordered on www.eeuroparts.com at the moment so I started with the radiator. Starting disassembly: Disconnect battery  Drain coolant Unbolt your turbo to intercooler pipe clamps and remove unbolt your ignition coil  vacuum control valve ( next to coil brown valve, thing that clicks when it goes bad) Remove the torque screws holding in the fans ( T20 screws 2 upper, 1 lower) and unplug and lift out remove take of overflow return hose, Driver side un plug fan temp sensor , Driver side upper radiator hose, Passenger side lower radiator hose, Driver side unbolt 2 radiator bolts  tip back ( toward engine ) and lift out, radiator has two ...

Purge Valve Replacement on a 2008 Mazdaspeed3, I recently was having a hard start after refueling, the car would start and idle at 500 rpm and barely run and would stall but would restart and with a quick gas pedal press it would run fine once it idled out. So I googled a bit and found that it was the purge valve.  I bought one from AMAZON.com  the Dorman 911-702 Mazda 6 Purge Valve Start by removing the Inter-cooler Cover Screws and the plastic guard. Locate the Purge Valve (in between the inter-cooler and the battery box) Remove the hose guarding to get to the clamps and remove the power connector to the purge valve Remove the Hose Clamps and slide off the Purge Valve The rubber mount will not be in the Same Orientation  Remove the Rubber mount from the new one and align to be the same as the one you just removed Re-install in the reverse order and Enjoy your speed again Amazon Affiliate Links used in po...

Changing the idler pulley, serpentine belt and tension pulley on a 2008 MazdaSpeed 3 is quite easy ( I do not know if this all applies to the regular Mazda 3) and can be completed in a couple hours. I got all my parts from Napa www.napaonline.com  / good luck 1. Set the e-brake 2. Loosen the Lug nuts on the Front Passenger Tire 3. Jack the front of the car and support on jack stands 4. Remove the front Passenger tire 5. Remove the bolts that attach the small plastic splash guard toward the front of the fender well ( this gives you a bit more room for getting at the idler)  (A view from the top of the engine bay) 6. Use a Combo Wrench on the Tensioner Pulley to slack the belt and slide it off the pulley (Turn the wrench Clock-Wise to slack the belt, note that there is a notch so that the Tensioner can only rotate so far so do not exert the Tensioner beyond the point it feels it stops rotating) 7. Remove the two bolts that hold t...