Skip to main content

Mazdaspeed3 lower splash shield, "skid" panel ( its plastic so not really a skid pan)

Warning ! working on your own car is dangerous and all parts listed below are not guaranteed to work on your case so do your homework. this is just a guide of what I did to remedy a problem and how I was able to trouble shoot and resolve my issue as inexpensively as possible.

I recently collected a bit to much snow in my lower splash shield when backing into garage that it bent and caught the lip of concrete at the driveway/garage union. Needless to say it split in two and had to be zip tie stitched back together until I could get a new one.

They are available from $149 - $26

www.onlinemazdaparts.com $149

https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/Mazda_2008_323L-MTMazdaspeed-Hatchback/Lower-shield-Radiator-Support-Splash-Shield-Under-cover--Front-Lower-shield------------------------------Under-cover/49003146/BP4K56111M.html

www.Amazon.com $40.71 w/ prime shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF1Q8P2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

www.rockauto.com $26.89 or $40.88 w/shipping

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2008,3,2.3l+l4+turbocharged,1442059,body,under+car+shield,13300?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

I ended up getting the Amazon one, as far as I could tell they are the same, minus the hole for teh oil filter seemed to be bigger on the original. So I enlarged it on the new one just in case and deburred the edges.

I chocked the rear wheels and supported the front of the car on jack stands.
  1. Remove all the (qty 9) 10mm bolts from the lower pan holding it to the radiator support in the front and the wheel well splash guards, all the bright gold-ish colored mounts as shown in picture and three in the front that go to lower radiator support
  2. Then it should fall off
  3. Reinstall in reverse order, I found that getting the two rear ones from each side started and one in the front to get it to at least hang flat while you got the rest of the bolts in seemed to be the easiest otherwise there were some minor struggles. ( I did this twice,  removed and reinstalled, in the matter of a few days)

Good luck and happy motoring!

Comments

  1. Dinesh DewasiJuly 4, 2020 at 12:06 AM

    Hi Dear,

    I Like Your Blog Very Much. I see Daily Your Blog, is A Very Useful For me.

    You can also Find wall storage Maintaining the security of harmful substances is essential in a medical practice. To properly store items while maintaining floor space, be sure to check out Omnimed medical office equipment.

    Visit Now:- https://omnimedstore.com/wall-storage/

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

MazdaSpeed 3 2008 Idler / Tensioner Pulleys and Belt

Changing the idler pulley, serpentine belt and tension pulley on a 2008 MazdaSpeed 3 is quite easy ( I do not know if this all applies to the regular Mazda 3) and can be completed in a couple hours. I got all my parts from Napa www.napaonline.com  / good luck 1. Set the e-brake 2. Loosen the Lug nuts on the Front Passenger Tire 3. Jack the front of the car and support on jack stands 4. Remove the front Passenger tire 5. Remove the bolts that attach the small plastic splash guard toward the front of the fender well ( this gives you a bit more room for getting at the idler)  (A view from the top of the engine bay) 6. Use a Combo Wrench on the Tensioner Pulley to slack the belt and slide it off the pulley (Turn the wrench Clock-Wise to slack the belt, note that there is a notch so that the Tensioner can only rotate so far so do not exert the Tensioner beyond the point it feels it stops rotating) 7. Remove the two bolts that hold t...
8 comments
Read more

2008 MazdaSpeed3 Purge Valve Replacement

Purge Valve Replacement on a 2008 Mazdaspeed3, I recently was having a hard start after refueling, the car would start and idle at 500 rpm and barely run and would stall but would restart and with a quick gas pedal press it would run fine once it idled out. So I googled a bit and found that it was the purge valve.  I bought one from AMAZON.com  the Dorman 911-702 Mazda 6 Purge Valve Start by removing the Inter-cooler Cover Screws and the plastic guard. Locate the Purge Valve (in between the inter-cooler and the battery box) Remove the hose guarding to get to the clamps and remove the power connector to the purge valve Remove the Hose Clamps and slide off the Purge Valve The rubber mount will not be in the Same Orientation  Remove the Rubber mount from the new one and align to be the same as the one you just removed Re-install in the reverse order and Enjoy your speed again Amazon Affiliate Links used in po...
3 comments
Read more

Mazdaspeed3 Gen1 2008 Rear sway arm bushings and stabilizer links

Warning ! working on your own car is dangerous and all parts listed below are not guaranteed to work in your case so do your homework. this is just a guide of what I did to remedy a problem and how I was able to trouble shoot and resolve my issue as inexpensively as possible. For a little while now I had been getting the dreaded rear "clink clunk" of the sway bar when going over bumps slowly. I had ordered and installed the Moog sway bar bushing s and sway bar links in April 2016. The originals had lasted since 08, at least the records I have and for sure since 2012 when I bought the car. I am trying the Febest sway bar links  and Febest sway bar bushings  this time around as I though the moogs would have lasted longer and was not super happy with the boot design on the sway bar links. Tools required-ish: (depending on your current type of sway bar links) Hammer to start the bolts loose as there is limited space to get a longer ratchet under car for some of these 6...
Post a Comment
Read more